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Tuesday, June 30, 2015

May 23 - 24, 2015 ITALY - Cinque Terre (Tour days 14 - 15) Post 3.4 of 5


Manarola
MAY 17 - 24, 2015 ITALY 
Venice, Florence, Rome, Cinque Terre (Tour days 8 - 15) 
Post 3 of 5 in 4 parts, each a separate post
Venice - Post 3.1 of 5  Florence - Post 3.2 of 5  Rome - Post 3.3 of 5  Cinque Terre - Post 3.4 of 5


May 23 - 24, 2015  ITALY
Cinque Terre
(Tour Days 14 - 15)
Post 3.4 of 5




Saturday, May 23, 2015
Cinque Terre but first a lunch stop in Massa Marittima
(Tour Day 14)
Moderate Walking Day

Oh my, this whole huge long Italy blog, just to get to Cinque Terre! I have been wanting to go there every since I came to Italy, and just never made it until now!! But not just yet... there is one more place to show pictures of. A little hill town called Massa Marittima.  

We had another early start, and was still rainy and overcast as be boarded the bus and headed out of Rome. Even seemed dark on the bus... better for sleeping for the next few hours... going to be a long bus ride today.

One last picture of Rome as we were leaving. Carissa and I had a hotel very close to this corner last year, so as we drove out of town this way, I looked for the really neat little outdoor cafe we had eaten in our last night here, but I did not see it. Everything was still closed at this time of the morning, and looking different, so perhaps I just didn't recognize it.  

Dark rain clouds this morning, but as we go along, it seems to be lifting a bit, so now for more beautiful countryside photos.

Heading up the west coast 
and then we arrived at this cool little town in the Tuscany region. Now Tuscany has always been the most beautiful of all of Italy to me, and I loved the three months I stayed there. There is not a bad picture to be made in this area. Everything is always beautiful!
When we arrived here in Massa Marittima, the first thing several of us did, was climb to the top of Candeliere Tower, a very tall tower, with lots of crazy tiny stairs. Once we reached the top, we all started taking lots and lots of pictures.... so here they are! Even though it had been raining and was very cloudy and overcast, it still was a beautiful view.  























Then after we had taken pictures of just about every house and field and tree and cloud and sea, from every angle, we headed down the hill into the village for lunch.  
Credit to Ed Brasberger for this picture


This is the church that was designated as our meeting place at a specific time.


Lunch was an 'on your own' affair this day. There were several restaurants here, but it was still a bit early for lunch for me, and we had a very long lunch break here, so I decided to wander around a bit. After a while, I came across this really cool one, so decided that is where I would like to eat.

It was also just about this time that the Sky's opened up and really started crying. Water was coming down in sheets it seemed like. Since I absolutely love a good rain... watching it and hearing it, I decided to sit right here at the very edge of the covered area where I could watch it and also hear it pounding on the the canvas overhead.
A perfect lunch and the perfect music (rain) to have it by! I loved this little place!
Then the proprietor started visiting with me and found out I was from Washington, and before I knew it he had written this sign. 2-0-6 Baby... That is the area code for Seattle. He was enamored of Seattle and then went on to tell me of his hopes and dreams of going there some day. He was an avid sports fan and followed the 'Hawks' and the Mariners.

Now it's time to get on down the road to Cinque Terre. But lots more miles and lots more scenery to take pictures of before we arrive.



These pictures taken through the bus windows, you can see the rain water streaks and spots too. All just part of the journey ☺








It was along in here somewhere as we were coming up highway E-80 that we passed so close to the leaning Tower of Pisa, that when we stopped at the rest stop, you could faintly see it in the distance. Several tried to take pictures, however, it was overcast and rainy, so were not able to get a picture that looked like much of anything. I think this was a real shame.

Now for the most part, I think this was an exceptional tour, however, to be that close and not take the couple extra hours to go see it seems a bit unusual. After all, these people had just traveled half way around the world to get here, had spent days and days on the road for a few hundred miles now, and to be this close and not get to go see it.... Someone mentioned something about it costing €200 to take the bus into Pisa... but lets see... they just charged... well lets just say, lots and lots!! for this tour.... hmmmm... seems like a minor detail to me.

If time was the issue, then we could have forfeited the 2.5 hour extra long lunch time we had today, sitting out a rainy day, in a tiny village where most of the shops were closed and there was basically nothing to do. I don't think I could have taken any more pictures there... already had a few dozen. ☺

Anyway, I felt really bad for everyone, because that is a grand monument to see. I had a picture of it I had taken in October, which I shared with some... not sure if that made people feel worse or better :( I will have to say though, that if people had any strong objections to not getting to see it, they kept their thoughts to themselves. This was true throughout the tour... we were such a jolly good group!! 

Getting closer now
Now we are entering the hill country in the Cinque Terre area.



Coming through these hills, we were on narrow, winding, mostly one lane roads with 90 degree curves and there were lots of cars and lots of other buses coming up. Twice, we had to stop, back up and move as close to the edge as possible so the other bus could come around the curve and get by. Fantastic job Peter!! Hats off to ya!... oh, I wasn't wearing a hat, well here, let me borrow Ben's..

Speaking of hats, several of the guys wore them (and even bought some along the way) and I think that hats are cool! I haven't seen too much of that in recent years, almost everyone wears baseball caps now. My father wore a cap for work, but for dress, he always wore a hat. I liked that.

Arriving in Levanto

 Levanto church Santuario di Nostra Signora della Guardia
And now we are off the hill and Peter will park the bus here in Levanto. We will need to lug our bags for a ways and catch the train into Monterosso, the northernmost town of Cinque Terre where our Hotel is located.

And we have arrived in Monterosso!!  Hotel Punta Mesco. They gave us a password for the WIFI, but I never could connect here. This was true in so many places we stayed.
Not a bad little joint, I don't have much floor space or luggage space, but the bed is full size and the room is clean! Great little hotel, as compared to.... well lets just say to some I've recently stayed in ☺ Everything is comparative. If I keep my expectations low, I am never disappointed ☺
Too cold and rainy this day for much beach activity, however, I did see a few in the water.
Monterosso

First our orientation from Martin. He really was a good tour guide and you could tell he had done this a few times, as he knew exactly what, when and where. Made for a very easy and enjoyable visit to each city and for everything we did. He made it seem almost hassle free, yet having done 'piles' of traveling, I know how much time and effort and thinking goes into this.
Love all the colorful houses. They say this is because of the fishermen. Since the primary economy here in these villages is fishing, the fishermen would paint their houses these bright colors, so they could see their home from the sea and know which one was theirs.

Martin is now taking us on an orientation tour of Monterosso, and showing us where the trail head starts if anyone wants to hike to the next village tomorrow.  

Where we can go to catch the boat.... that would be me! I have five villages I want to see and one day to do it in, so must make the most of my time, and also, back to my preference of seeing things from a distance first... makes my time more enjoyable when I actually go into the village.
A favorite restaurant on the hill where they serve fresh sea food of all kinds.
Then to the town center where there are lots and lots of other restaurants and shops
Late in the evening, after we had finished dinner, when we came back through the square here, there was live music and dancing. I think some of our group joined in... or maybe that was in Venice?? Too many days later, I am trying to remember all these little details, but regardless, it happened somewhere and on this tour, so there!  After all, il mio cervello è vecchio e invecchiando di giorno in giorno ... so every day longer it takes me to get this blog finished... my brain will probably be scrambled eggs by then!!
This region is known for their very large lemons!
Checking out Monterosso

A map of Italy and 2015 Expo all made of fruit.  Milano is hosting the 2015 Expo from May 1 to Oct.

And then it was dinner time! Six of us went to a little place, and the food was yummy. I actually had simple fare of fish and chips, but I think it was the best fish I've ever had. Also, I  sat next to a couple with an 18 month old and had a nice chat with them. They were from Italy but were on holiday.
and then this dessert!  It was yummy. A glass of lemon sorbet and limoncello!.. It loosens tongues....
and wallets obviously, as Duncan actually paid for my dinner this evening and shared about his life.
Was finally nice to get a chance to visit with him. He is a young man from New Zealand and his partner of 8 years either cannot, or does not, like to travel, so he was a solo traveler like me, however, unlike me, where no one is a stranger and I can have a conversation just about anywhere, he was a bit quiet and more reserved. He did however, during the tour, have dinner with just about everyone I think. Way to go Duncan and thank you again for the dinner! I teased him about being a collector of citizenship's... Hong Kong, Canada and now New Zealand. WAY too much paperwork for me! I am struggling with all this Italy business, just to live here temporarily!!

The walk back, and way off in the distance you can see the lights of the other villages. Back through the tunnel to our hotel. Can't wait until tomorrow to check this place out!



Sunday, May 24, 2015
Cinque Terre
(Tour Day 15)
Strenuous Walking Day


Monterosso in the distance to the north


Cinque Terre means Five Lands. It is five villages in the cliffs, along the edge of the west coast of Italy. Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.

I wanted to see them all!! I have one day to do this, but that didn't deter me. I was up early this morning and it was a glorious sunny day! Rain had gone away and it was gorgeous, so I was off to catch the first boat.

 Beaches were still vacant this early, but by the end of the day...
Beautiful water

Now, for the sake of keeping my story straight, I will also number the islands.
Our Hotel is on Monterosso, the northernmost island or 'top' one.
I will call it Monterosso #1... how about that for logic!
Then comes  Vernazza, #2
then Corniglia, #3,
Manarola, #4
and Riomaggiore #5, the southernmost one. 
And here comes the boat. While I was standing there waiting to board, along came Ken & Karmen, also catching the first boat. Wayne & Ginette and Ben & Eva had already left for a hike to the nearest village, Vernazza. After I boarded the boat the picture taking became almost frantic! I just couldn't get enough pictures of this place it seemed, so .....

...there are a few hundred pictures here! Unless I have something specific to say, I will just let you enjoy the photos. You also know if you click on them, they will open in a bigger format. You will then be able to scroll to the next and the next and the next... well lots and lots...

Vernazza #2 Village seen from the boat.  I will return to this village last
Vernazza, #2.  I see it from the boat, but not my plan to stop off at this one yet.

Corniglia, #3, but the boat does not stop at this island, you have to take the train or bus to it. There used to be a hiking path along the edge of the cliffs, but due to serious damage and slides from so much rain about 4 years ago, you can no longer hike that path. More about Corniglia when I actually get there.

Corniglia #3 behind us now to the North and

Continuing on...  Manarola #4 village coming into view

Manarola #4 is the most photographed of the villages and I did my part to keep those statics true!
All these next several pictures were taken from the boat


You can see the fencing for the cliff path
So this is the path that would take you to Corniglia #3, but parts of it have slid off in the heavy rains they had, so it is closed as shown in this photo. I actually got just about to this point when I had to turn back.




Manarola #4 village is where I got off the boat. My boat ticket is good for all day, on and off as much as I like. Also my train and bus tickets. One price for the day, unlimited usage. Now my plan is to go back to Corniglia #3, as I want to see all the villages. How best to get there... well, I started hiking up this road to the trail, not knowing at that time that it was closed. I got several hundred yards, then had to turn around. On the way back, decided to hike to the top of the hill to get some better photos.

Now lot and lots of photos I took of Manarola #4 village... 





















Corniglia #3 to the North


Manarola #4 still ☺





Hiked up to the top of this hill to get photos.









Okay, I think I got enough pictures ☺, so hiked back into the town and then hiked back up through the town here in Manarola #4 to the train station to go to Corniglia #3 now.

Saw these climbers on their way... well to somewhere anyway, perhaps just the top ☺

From the train, I have now arrived in Corniglia #3. To actually get to the town, it is still a considerable long walk up hill all the way, or you can catch the bus, which I did. By the time this day was over, I knew I was going to get lots and lots and lots of walking, and hill climbing, and stairs so caught rides where I could.
Corniglia #3





In Corniglia #3, I hiked up top of another hill and am taking pictures of Manarola #4 to the South 

and of Monterosso #1 to the north where our hotel is
Monterosso #1

Next three are photos still of Corniglia #3



Looking South to Manarola #4

Looking North to Monterosso #1


Looking North at Monterosso #1

Looking South at Manarola #4

the next whole bunch of photos are zoomed in on Manarola #4












I took this selfie and by now it was just after noon, and I could tell from looking at it that I was hungry ☺  hee hee. So time to feed my face.


Now being that lemons are so popular here in Cinque Terre, it was suggested that we try a Margarita or two. Being adventuresome like I am, I did.... oh my!!! Even drinking it while eating food, it had quite a punch! It knocked my socks off... oh, I am wearing sandals today. Well, certainly anyone drinking this would not need a second one!...anyway not for a day or two or three ☺
Cinque Terre is also known for it's Pesto. I love pesto and this was exceptionally good!  It was a yummy Lunch!!  I had Trofie Al Pesto. I ordered the Gnocchi Al Pesto, but they were out.

Took this picture of the couple sitting at the table across from me. His hair was coal black and hers was very blond. What a contrast to see their heads together like this.

Then I got one last picture of Manarola #4 taken from Corniglia #3 (a long zoom!) just before I got on the train to go to Riomaggiore #5, the southernmost village. Just couldn't get enough pictures of that beautiful village on the cliff.
Manarola #4, what a beautiful village. No wonder it is the most photographed.

From Riomaggiore #5 village, I had hoped to get back on the boat and see three islands as well, but I still had Vernazza village #2 to see also and we were scheduled to all meet back at our hotel by 5pm, so I had to pass on the Islands this time. Next time for sure!

Now I have arrived at Riomaggiore #5.  Did a lot of hiking here, and as you can see the streets are very very steep.  





Riomaggiore #5





















Riomaggiore #5. As I was taking these three pictures, suddenly, I realized that was Ed and Elaine I was seeing down there.

Ed didnt' even know I took these pictures of him heading up the steps here on Riomaggiore #5. I told him about it later.





Okay, I spent a lot of time here, hiking way to the top and getting all these photos, so now I must get on the boat and leave Riomaggiore #5 and head to Vernazza #2
Where I boarded the boat.  What a zoo.. a huge line of people, everyone taking cuts and trying to make sure they got on the next boat arriving. As people disembarked, they were counted, then they only allow that same number of people to get on the boat. Well, I was lucky, I did get on, but there was still a huge line who would have to wait another 30 minutes for the next boat and then just hope they made it on that one. Or they could take the train.

Now these next photos of Riomaggiore #5, were taken from the boat. Because I had come here on the train, this is the first time I had seen this village from the sea side. Very colorful!





Bye Bye Riomaggiore #5









and it is out of sight

On the boat heading north
Coming back up to Manarola #4 where the boat will stop, then
back on our way going north toward Vernazza #2. There is not a boat dock on Corniglia #3






Now this is Corniglia #3





Corniglia #3







Vernazza #2.  My last village of the day to visit before returning to Monterosso #1 and look at that line of people trying to get on the boat. It was crowded like this at Riomaggiore #5 when I got on there as well. Glad I don't plan to take the boat when I leave here. I'll catch the train to Monterosso #1 when I am finished.







Decided the best way to get pictures was to hike up to the Castello Doria tower for €2. You had to go through all these houses and stair alleys just to get there, then when you reached the tower about 250 steps later, you had about a 100 steps inside the tower to get to the top. It was well worth it for the photos though and the view. About half way along the way getting up there was a restaurant on the cliff, where I saw Martin and a friend having a rest.

Stairs coming down out of the tower













Looking south





























This photo taken from the platform of the tower and the next one

This photo taken from the top of the tower



Looking over Vernazza #2






















Okay, time to catch the train and head back to Monterosso #1, and the hotel and have hors d'oeuvres.

Now back at Monterosso #1 and the beach.  

















I took these pictures of the sun reflecting off the Village off in the distance there.  It is not a very good picture, being so far away.

At five o'clock, we all gathered back at our Hotel for a little group gathering and some drinks and Hors d'oeuvres.
Credit to Patrick P for this picture

After this, some of us wandered back down to walk along the sea and a few shops and restaurants there. Patrick and Vannie and I had a gelato, then walked along and took a few more pictures, like I didn't already have enough! It's like an addiction ☺ and yet, as I am blogging along, I find many times that I didn't take a picture of something and now I wish I had it! I took over 7000 pictures on this tour and I missed something!! Incredible... how is that possible? ☺

While Ken, Karmen, and I and several others were standing around down here, when we observed several official looking vehicles arrive and men wearing ear pieces all hanging around apparently waiting for someone 'important' to arrive. I finally gave up waiting and went back to the hotel and to bed. Next morning I asked who it was, but they said they never saw anyone arrive and finally left also.




I just love all the colorful houses here


Now, that's a lemon! Well actually even the smaller one is way larger than what we would normally be able to get. Cinque Terre is known for their big lemons.

Next morning, we had a very nice breakfast at our hotel, also yesterday, then we took the train back to the bus in Levanto. Boarded the bus and off up the hill, heading north to Switzerland.
Peter doing his thing, loading the bags, waiting for us to load, then away we go. He was an excellent driver. When we had first entered Italy coming out of Austria, or maybe it was when we left Venice and went to Florence, I can't remember for sure, but there was a Italian Bus Driver that came on board and stated he would be driving this particular day. We were like, Why?, Peter is doing a fine job! Well, this new driver, drove like an Italian, and I will have to say, I sort of understand the Italian logic here, as there is a definite difference in driving styles here in Italy. Something I have blogged about often! However, Peter had driven here many times before, and was a very good driver, so I think perhaps, someone (other bus driver) just needed some 'wages' and that is just 'how things go' here in Italy. Anyway, if there is more to the story than this, we were not made aware of it. After that one day, Peter continued to drive throughout the rest of Italy and now today, we are on our way to Switzerland. We often congratulated Peter on his driving skills.  He was excellent in my opinion, and as some of you know I have had bus driving experience from years ago, so thank you again Peter for a job well done! You and all of us passengers... We survived Italy and it's crazy drivers!!

Buonanotte Cinque Terre
Tempo per me di dire addio per l'Italia ora. TornerĂ² in otto giorni! Ciao Ciao!
(Time for me to say goodbye to Italy now. I will be back in eight days!) Ciao Ciao!