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Tuesday, June 10, 2014

June 4 - 10, 2014 Palmi and Porto Cesareo


June 4 - 10, 2014 Palmi and Porto Cesareo


Better start recording some things or I will be forgetting them. 

June 4th thru 8th...
After church on Tuesday evening, Mariano and I packed up a few things to take to the South with us.  His mother dropped us off at the Train Station about 6:30 the next morning and we started on our long train rides to Palmi, way down on the West Coast at about the toe area of the shoe.   We changed trains in Florence and caught the Fast Train to Naples.
At times we went a little over 300 kph, but managed to get a picture at 300 (about 186 mph)

There we caught another train to Gioia Tauro that was still very fast, but a little slower.  Here we were going to catch the bus into Palmi, but it had already left, so we took yet another train, a local one into Palmi.    After we arrived in Palmi, we caught the bus up a very steep hill to the town, about 3 km, then walked uphill from there to the apartment I was wanting to check out. 

 The train ride South






















My impressions….  Where to start and how to say it.  The South is definitely different from the North.  Lots of agriculture in the South and my understanding is that most of the fresh produce in the North, comes from the South.  The people are very friendly and open and helpful.  We rode the local bus a few times and the drivers will stop along any road whether there is a bus stop or not and pick up and drop off people.  Once a lady was standing in her yard and the driver stopped and inquired about her ill husband, then we drove on. 

 Loved the laid back lifestyle!  As far as living here, it is very remote from most places and not easy to catch trains to other places, so for that fact, I didn’t feel it would be the place for me, even though, the apartment itself was very nice and I could easily have lived in it and it had a sea view.  Was not able to get a clear picture of the sea from the windows, as every day we were there, it was ‘socked in’.    Walked to the bakery and market every day.  Had wonderful chocolate croissants, fresh pizza baked in a wood fired oven and a loooonnnggg hike trying to find a way to get to the sea from the cliffs.  Finally realized we were not going to get there without taking a bus about 5 km, so that is what we did.  The beach is mostly gravel on one side and sand and gravel on the other side.  The entrance into the water is gravel however, and very hard on the feet and also, hard to get in and out of as it would slip under foot.  There was a big rock that the young people were jumping from into the sea, including Mariano.  There were also jellyfish and he got stung in three places, so didn’t make for a very fun afternoon for him.   The bus only runs at 4pm to take us down and doesn’t pick up until about 8pm, so a lot of sitting around and waiting.  There are restaurants along the ‘promenade’, however, they don’t open until about 8, as that seems to be when most people in Italy eat.

 Palmi



































Our 'huge' cups of coffee :)

no parking experts here :)

Anyway, while I was that close, I wanted to go to Sicily, so early Saturday morning we caught the train (a very old one… WWII vintage that actually had to be shifted… it was so cool!!) to the Ferry and went across to Messina.  I really liked Messina.  That city and about a half hour bus ride up one side of the Island is about all we got to see before having to catch the Ferry back, but I liked it.  We also did a bit of shopping there.  They have a food in Italy called Arancini (fried and stuffed rice balls) and according to Mariano, they make it the best on the Island, so that is what we had, and it was Good!  We also had to have a Cannoli.   It was a very long day by the time we got back to Palmi.  Did some laundry and then had a good night’s rest before Sunday and church… of two!  It was special.   In the evening we cleaned up the Apartment (Mariano swept and mopped) and got it ready to shut back up for the owners who only use it for vacation.

First view of Sicily from the Ferry.  There are even train tracks on the ferries and they often bring several train cars across this way.




 Arancini, what we had for lunch.  It was great!


Spent several hours walking around, then headed to the beach after we had this wonderful lunch.







 Then we hoped on a bus and headed for the beach



 Heading back to the Ferry





Ferry ride back

 Goodbye Messina.  I'll be back!
 Sicily on the left and mainland Italy on the right
While I was walking past a barbershop in Messina, I did a double take for sure!!!  This looks exactly like a man I worked with years ago at the PUD.  This is exactly how he looked when back in the 80's / 90's.  Gary W, you have a twin!!!

Or last day in Palmi, we had another swim, then our last night in Palmi, we had wood fired pizza.  It was absolutely the best!

 the promenade, waiting for our bus back up the hill.

 Wood Fired pizza



June 9, 2014

Arose early to leave Palmi.  I was catching the trains and bus to Porto Cesareo and Mariano was heading back to Vicchio.  There is a social traveling network here, where anyone looking for someone to drive with them to share the cost can catch a ride, so that is what he did.  He caught the bus in Palmi, over to the highway, then the person traveling to Florence picked him up there.  It was a long drive back for him.  I caught the train in Palmi to go to Porto Cesareo.  Here is what my ticket looked like as an example:
Train: Regionale  3660   date  09/06/2014
Departure: Palmi (time: 07:48); Arrival: Castiglione Cosentino (time: 09:46)
Seat : Seats (only 2° Classe) Service : 2° Classe

Train: Regionale  8514   date  09/06/2014
Departure: Castiglione Cosentino (time: 10:30); Arrival: Sibari (time: 11:25)
Seat : Seats (only 2° Classe) Service : 2° Classe

Train: Autobus  RC506  date  09/06/2014
Departure: Sibari (time: 14:03); Arrival: Taranto (time: 16:40)
Seat : Seats (only 2° Classe) Service : 2° Classe
 2ª CLASSE  Traveler Name:Carmen Holloway;
Loyalty Code:
Punti: --;

Train: Regionale  3617   date  09/06/2014
Departure: Taranto (time: 16:50); Arrival: Brindisi (time: 17:53)
Seat : Seats (only 2° Classe) Service : 2° Classe

Train: Regionale  12603  date  09/06/2014
Departure: Brindisi (time: 18:11); Arrival: Lecce (time: 18:38)
Seat : Seats (only 2° Classe) Service : 2° Classe
As you can see, two times, I had only a few minutes to get to my next train and that is getting out to the platform, down the stairs, under the tracks, back up the stairs to the correct track for my train.  You can be sure I will always travel light as possible!!  Anyway, part of this ticket is actually on a bus and I was sure I wasn’t going to make it to the station in time to catch my next train, as it only gave me 10 minutes and it appeared the bus was going to be late, due to construction.  Anyway, as it turned out, he was five minutes early and the train was five minutes late leaving, however, didn’t change the fact that I had to hustle J.    The last train connection, however, I wasn’t going to make I was sure, as we didn’t get to the station until 18:15 and my connection was scheduled to leave four minutes earlier at 18:11.  When I stepped out on the platform, no train, so my thought was what now and no more had I thought it, than the train pulled into the station... it also had been late, so all was well and I caught all my connections and arrived in Lecce on time.

 My new friend Giulia ((we met in Paranna, (Livorno area) about a month ago)) who had planned to pick me up at the station ended up having to work, so she had her friend pick me up.  I had never seen this person before, however, as soon as I stepped out of the station, he immediately came up to me in that crowd of people and says, “I’m Giulia’s friend here to pick you up”, except it was in Italian… anyway, he looked friendly enough and she had told me someone would be picking me up, so away we went!  J   Turns out he was an off duty Polizia, although, I didn’t find that out until we were trying to communicate in broken English and Italian.  

Very friendly like all the people here and when we got to the place where Giulia and Mirabella (who shares an apartment with her) live, we stopped and he bought me a coffee.  Mirabella works here so I got to meet her and she treated me to a wonderful Gelato… hazelnut & caffe with hot coffee in the center and crisps.  Oh my... Gelato is going to be a big hindrance for me losing weight I think J Anyway, after coffee, he drove me around a bit to orient me to the town and the beach area, then took me to the place where I’ll be staying for a few days. 

 Giulia had stocked the refrigerator for me and all I can say is WOW!   Fruits, meats, cheeses, yogurt, juices, milk, vegetables, eggs, loaf of fresh bread, and more!!!  What a sweetheart!!   About 10:30 when she got off work she came over… she lives just across from where I’m staying.  So good to finally see her again and give her a big hug! 




June 10, 2014 

Had a wonderful sleep in an air conditioned room!!  A real treat, since it had been very hot yesterday, and even though the sea breeze is great here, it wasn’t moving much last evening.   

Some lady came into my place about 8:30 this morning and laid the table and made coffee, etc, so when I got up and went downstairs my breakfast was ready!  Giulia came over with a wonderful sweet roll and we made plans for the day, which was to go to the beach!  She had changed work schedules with someone so she could have the day with me.  

bus part of my trip along the sea

lots of farming

 Having coffee with the polizia on the right who picked me up at the station




June 10, 2014

What a wonderful day we had on an awesome beach!  I love it here!!!  We stayed from about 10am to 3pm then she had to get ready for work.  I rode with her down to where Mirabella works and am sitting here right now by the sea at the Gelato, Coffee Shop, Restaurant and Bar using their free WIFI and enjoying the gorgeous weather, sitting by the Sea with a warm sea breeze, eating Gelato and coffee… awesome!!  Giulia also left me makings for Bruschetta tonight while she is at work… I feel guilty eating without sharing it with her. Tomorrow, we are going to see about maybe renting an apartment here… will keep you posted regarding this.

My new friend Giulia

 Giulia and me, a day at the beach!  The best beach in the world!!!






  and her housemate Mirabella
 Mirabella making my Gelato
 sitting at the sea shore blogging



Okay, it is 11pm and I better leave the sea and go get some sleep.  Giulia will be here to pick me up shortly.  Buonanotte

P.S. didn't actually leave till just after midnight, as Giulia had to meet someone here that was inquiring about work... things really do happen late here!!!

4 comments:

  1. Hi Carmen,
    So nice of you to catch us up. Your pics again tell so much of your story. Beautiful place, and you are a trusting, gutsy traveler. Can't say I would be so brave alone. It will be so settling to find out
    "where" you are to BE. Remembering you.

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  2. Such beautiful pictures - again! Your friends have treated you well! I can just about taste that gelato too! Yumm!

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  3. Beautiful photos! So glad that you are meeting some people and that they all sound so helpful and friendly. Hope the apartment works out so you can have a "home" and get a little settled. You'll have to share photos of the apartment and your neighborhood as soon as you choose one.

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  4. Carmen, you are having such wonderful adventures! Very happy for you, and am so enjoying your pictures. Thank you for sharing!

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